Acclaim for Roussanne

Awards

Vintage 2006:

Exceptional - Frederic Koeppel - 03.02.09

Those of you — and may your names be legion and your tribes increase! — who have been reading me for years will remember that I’m a fan of Renaissance Vineyard and Winery in the North Yuba area of California’s Sierra Foothills. Snug in those rolling hills, the winery, under the guidance of winemaker Gideon Beinstock, produces ridiculously small quantities of superb wines. The Renaissance Roussanne 2006 is the radiant straw-gold color of Rapunzel’s hair; the entrancing bouquet unfolds a sequence of candle wax, bacon fat, camellia and peach with an infusion of lime tea. Roasted lemon, lemon curd and lemon balm dominate the palate, with a touch of pear in the background, an aspect of roasted honey — though the wine is bone-dry — and a touch of dried meadows and potpourri. The flare of keen acidity sings the wine’s honesty and integrity. The alcohol level is a gratifying and old-fashioned 12.8 percent. A seriously beautiful wine for drinking through 2014 or ‘15 (well-stored). Exceptional. About $35. The Rub? Beinstock only made 76 cases of this wine.

Of this trio of diverse white wines, the Renaissance Roussanne 2006 performed the best at bringing itself and the flavors and herbal-spicy notes of the beef salad together, though let’s face it, we’re talking basically about a red wine dish.
Link to award

Vintage 2005:

Excellent - Frederic Koeppel - 02.09.08

From an unheralded AVA (American Viticultural Area), Renaissance produces minuscule amounts of remarkably pure and intense wines; most see NO NEW OAK and the alcohol levels are all UNDER 14 PERCENT. Can this be California? However, an exception to the no new oak procedure for the winery is this stunning Roussanne 2005, which sees nine months in new oak barrels and nine more months in four-year-old barrels. The wine opens with a wafting of jasmine, lemon, candied grapefruit and candied lime peel, all of this like a layering of tissues, of the most delicate fabric blowing in a warm breeze. The wine is no wimp, however; it’s luxurious without being obvious, well-balanced without being timid, and, in fact, was flavorful and substantial enough to stand up to one of our favorite hearty dishes, the cod stew with potatoes, leeks and chorizo. Touches of lanolin comes up, with dried thyme and lavender, earthy dusty weeds, and roasted lemon. The wine gets drier and sparer in the glass, allowing the limestone to take over on the finish, but it’s never less than delicious and intriguing. 42 cases. Now through 2010 or ’11. Excellent.