2005 Roussanne

From an unheralded AVA (American Viticultural Area), Renaissance produces minuscule amounts of remarkably pure and intense wines; most see NO NEW OAK and the alcohol levels are all UNDER 14 PERCENT. Can this be California? However, an exception to the no new oak procedure for the winery is this stunning Roussanne 2005, which sees nine months in new oak barrels and nine more months in four-year-old barrels. The wine opens with a wafting of jasmine, lemon, candied grapefruit and candied lime peel, all of this like a layering of tissues, of the most delicate fabric blowing in a warm breeze. The wine is no wimp, however; it’s luxurious without being obvious, well-balanced without being timid, and, in fact, was flavorful and substantial enough to stand up to one of our favorite hearty dishes, the cod stew with potatoes, leeks and chorizo. Touches of lanolin comes up, with dried thyme and lavender, earthy dusty weeds, and roasted lemon. The wine gets drier and sparer in the glass, allowing the limestone to take over on the finish, but it’s never less than delicious and intriguing. 42 cases. Now through 2010 or ’11. Excellent.